Travel from UK to the Faroe Islands

The Faroe Islands are nation very close to my heart. Since first visiting in 2011 and even before this, when I first discovered the Islands around 2008, I had an instant fascination. Something quite difficult to explain, in terms of connection with this remote island nation.

My first real encounter with the Faroes was through the BBC television documentary Coast with Nick Crane and Neil Oliver. For the first time in Coast’s history, the team headed abroad to explore an area beyond the shores of the United Kingdom. I then decided to take this new found interest further and do some research online.

I discovered there were a couple of books available to buy on Amazon (there are many more now than back then) and also made contact with some people on the old social media platform Myspace. Here is where a friendship would develop with a woman of similar age called Susan – she would be the main source of my information over the next couple of years before I was able to visit myself. We messaged fairly regularly and slowly but surely, I developed a half-decent understanding of the culture, the food, it’s people and some history about the Faroes. 

So, along came 2011 and whilst at work with a friend (we both worked at the same hotel in Birmingham, UK)- I asked him how he would feel about a week or two in a country called the Faroe Islands. We had been to Iceland together one year previous, for a week hiking holiday so I was confident he would be keen on this trip aswell.

Initially he admitted he had no knowledge of the Faroes bar knowing of their existence from watching football. I persuaded him to take an information brochure on the Faroes I had obtained online, which he took away and quickly got on board with the idea of travelling there in the summer. We organised our hostel stay in central Torshavn; 9 nights 10 days and we would book our flights direct from London Gatwick with a night stay beforehand in an airport hotel. Don’t get me started on airports or I will go totally off topic! I love the thrill of the hustle and bustle of airports, something which stems from childhood. 

After packing our large hiking-style rucksacks we caught the train down from Birmingham to London Gatwick and checked into our airport hotel. The real adventure would start the following day.

We checked out after breakfast and headed for Gatwick via the shuttle. When we got there, we were told the unfortunate news that the flight scheduled for the Faroes was delayed by 3 hours due to bad weather. We took ourselves to an airport cafe, enjoyed coffee and cake, watched the world go by until we would hopefully be able to board. We were wrong, it would be another 3 hours until the flight was ready to take off. 

When we finally reached the Islands we were taken by a very friendly taxi driver from Vagar airport to Torshavn. We told her to keep the change from the ride for which she seemed very surprised but appreciative. 

The first day or so of the trip we would simply explore the local area of the capital, get some groceries from the local supermarket and familiarise ourselves with local bus routes, cafe opening times etc. I had a little trouble contacting home to say I’d arrived but eventually got through using the hostel’s phone. This was the time before I had my first smart phone!

Over the next few days, we would travel extensively around the country mainly using the local bus services as we opted to not hire a car (something I wish we now did but as young 21 students we were quite limited financially!). We visited Gjógv and Eiði, as well as spending time in Runavík and Klaksvík. Despite good intentions we were unable to get over to Mykines so I’ve always thought this will provide a great excuse to go back. 

One evening back in Tórshavn we were wondering around the main street near Hotel Tórshavn when I saw a young lady further up the street. We glanced at each other but carried on walking. I thought to myself I’m sure that was Susan who I’d previously chatted to online but we had never arranged to meet up. It was quite surreal. Unfortunately, this was our last day of the trip so when I went back to the hostel and got some internet signal, I messaged her to see if my assumptions were correct. They were! I was disappointed it was our last day as she had only been visiting Torshavn for the day from her home town Klaksvik, so I said I would be back one day and we would then be able to arrange to meet up. 

Sure enough I would be back. In 2012 I arrived back in the Faroes in July to conduct some research for my University Undergraduate dissertation. At the time the University of the Faroe Islands were offering a £500 bursary to any foreign students wanting to conduct research in the Faroes that summer- that was the only requirement and the application process was easy so I simply had to return.

Over the next few months prior to my second trip (alone this time) I organised and coordinated with my dissertation supervisor what my intentions were and what I would be studying – ‘renewable energy in small island communities’. I would be focussing my attention on the community projects ongoing in both Nólsoy and Vestmanna. I made contact with a Professor at the University of the Faroe Islands who was able to organise meetings with various influential people in the industry and take me personally to sites of interest – Prof Knud Simonsen, a fantastic man.

Strangely, the £500 bursary I was successful in application for, would be collected in cash from the bank on arrival and not via a prearranged online bank transfer but I would collect this when I was there. 

This time, I also made contact with Susan beforehand and we arranged to meet a couple of times over that week. We saw a film together in Torshavn (Spiderman 4 if memory serves me right) and spent a day travelling round with her then boyfriend in their car visiting all sorts of wonderful sites including the majestic Saksun.

This was arguably the highlight of the trip. What a place, what scenery, I can still picture it now 10 years on. One day I will return to Saksun.

That evening I was invited to a family meal at Susan’s house where I was able to meet her sister and nieces as well as her mother, a lovely lady who really tried with her English. I felt somewhat embarrassed I knew so little Faroese!

I was treated to a full Faroese meal including dried fish, lamb and potatoes. The kindness was tremendous and they all seemed really interested in asking me questions about my life in the UK, the two little girls who were football mad were asking about Manchester United, Old Trafford amongst other things. They also told me of their love for England striker Wayne Rooney! 

It was a wonderful insight into an authentic Faroese home, one experience I will never forget. Following this wonderful day of travelling with Susan and her boyfriend I would be taken back to my hostel in Torshavn where that evening I would go out one last time for a coffee in Hotel Tórshavn, write up some dissertation notes and reflect on a second thoroughly enjoyable trip to the Faroes. 

From this time, I have continued to develop my passion for the Islands and although I have not been back in a fairly long time, I still read articles, listen the Faroe Islands Podcast (Matthew Workman) and watch any Faroese football highlights I can get access too. I am still Facebook friends with Susan and although we don’t really converse any more, it is nice to see she now has her own family like me, and is still enjoying life back in the Faroes. 

What an absolute gem of a location. A true Island paradise. I would recommend a visit to anyone.